Kikelewa Cave Camp to Mawenzi Tarn Camp (Day #6) (2/17/2011)

I was in the tent writing my daily log and had no idea what day it was.  All I knew was that it was yesterday plus one.  I had to go back out to check the date on my watch  to figure out the date (it was too dark in the tent and my old eyes were having trouble focussing on the tiny date scale).

Reveille was at 6am with Adam's solemn voice ringing in the new day and the aroma of freshly brewed tea wafting in the air.  We were out of the camp by 8am.  Today's was a "special" hike.  What was so special one might ask?  Kikelewa Cave was at 11,200 ft and we finished at Mawenzi Tarn Camp at 14,160ft; and it was all UP, all the way, not much in the way of flat areas and very few if any downward slopes.  It was one of those hikes where we look up ahead at the trail and it snakes its way through boulder-strewn hillsides and disappears into the clouds.  It was another cloudy day during the trek.  That was probably a blessing in disguise as it hid the ultimate highs we had to cross before getting to camp.  If we had glimpsed those insurmountable heights it might have proven to be very demoralizing.  So into the clouds we trekked.  We pass numerous valleys lined with giant groundsels with marks of the fire that had destroyed parts of the vegetation a few years back, still lingering among the plants.  And even here fresh shoots arose from the charred remnants, continuing the circle of life.  We soon left the heather at the lower altitudes as we ventured into the alpine region with hardly andy vegetation at all.  The trek was a slog but not unduly tiring.  All credit go to our excellent guides, Bernard and Godlove, who  kept up a very manageable pace and ensured we rested often.  The Harry and David trail mix packs were put to good use with everyone enjoying the variety.  Oh, and the elk jerky: excellent.  Just chewing on the tough, juicy strips of meat was especially satisfying.  Everyone is required to drink atlas 4 liters of water.  I found that to be the most difficult feat during the trek.  I drank enough, but not the 4 liters, a secret that I did not tell Bernard until we were at camp the next day.  He was a little concerned but I was doing my best.

We passed and were passed by a number of groups.  One could always tell the groups with Brits among them; there was always someone who just could not leave his beloved brolly (umbrella) home.  There was one strolling among the tents at the next camp as if it was just an afternoon stroll along the banks of the Great Ouse, a brolly protecting his balding pate from the bright sun.  One of the spectacles of the day was the sighting of a rare species on this trek: lady porters.  I had seen one or two at one of the camps, but here, as we were resting for a few minutes after an especially arduous portion of the climb, here come three ladies bearing their burden, delicately balanced on their heads.  How they mange to climb balancing the stuff on their heads is beyond me.  They smiled as they went by and there was always the familiar, "Jambo."  Prosper, sat by the trail talking to one and all.  It seemed that everyone knew my friend Prosper.  He always had a kind word for everybody.  He could speak English quite well and was well versed with most of the flora and fauna we encountered.  What he did not know he would promise to read up when he got to his books.

Just before we got to camp the trail passes over a sharp ridge and then winds down along a particularly rocky path.  I suppose we could have had a great view of the camp but the with the ever present mist and clouds we could see not more than a few feet in front of us.  A few delicate steps over rocks and there was water.  That was Mawenzi Tarn, a small body of water at the foot of Mawenzi.  The Thomson Safari brochure had described this camp as "...a placid mountain lake at the foot of the majestic, steep ridges of Mawenzi, Kilimanjaro's second highest volcano. The camp is nestled at the edge of the lake in a protected alcove with spectacular views towards Mawenzi's cathedral-like spires." All true.  What they neglected to mention was that half the population of New York was camped there.  There were traffic jams here.  There were streets and avenues.  Now, if there were street lights and traffic signs the transformation would be complete.  I think everybody who had anything to do with climbing Kilimanjaro was there.  There was a group from Seattle led by the outfitter herself, a bossy lady who insisted the group dine outside without the luxury of a tent (or was it because the tent carrier was missing?)  Some of her group were not very happy.  Then there was the school teacher from Crete, with a bunch of British expatriate teenagers, all unusually well behaved.  This gentleman told me that it was his third trip up Kilimanjaro.  Every time in the past, when he got done, he promises never to have anything to do with Kilimanjaro again only to find that when the memory of the pain of the climb passes into the vaults of amnesia, he is back.  I checked in Stateside by sat phone to make sure everything was OK and then indulged in the luxury of an afternoon snooze, something I love but never get to practice very often.  Mawenzi was out of the clouds when I awoke, the sun was out and it was not too cold either.  I took the opportunity to take a few pictures of Mawenzi and the Tarn.  Renee and Norah are doing great.  I had been worried about Renee but she has done remarkably well since that bad day when exhaustion and a touch of altitude sickness had really did a number on her.  Ken was his usual self, taking notes, referencing his books, we were always kept well informed of all the curious plants and birds we saw, and taking pictures.  Then there was the Jordie and his brother from Morecambe Bay in Cumbria.  He works in IT and is a frequent visitor at Furness General Hospital, my old hospital.  I have asked him to say hi to my friends at the hospital.

I've gotta mention one other thing: Thomson Safaris had provided us with a convenient "loo" tent, one that had a chemical toilet.  I never did ask what happened to all the excrement.  Maybe I will the next time…  Some of the other groups did not have the luxury of their own private potty tent, and they made use of the permanent "outhouses" found at each camp.  The ones at Mawenzi Tarn were special, the drop through the aperture in the floor was a few hundred feet.


Tomorrow we hit the saddle...

2nd Cave to Kikelewa Cave Camp (16th Feb 2011) (Day #5)

Mawenzi

The trek to Kikelewa Caves started at our now usual time of 830am.  Today was an easy trek.  Down to 11800 ft.  The vegetation changes from alpine desert to heather.  Here, on a couple of occasions we see buffalo dung, but once again not nyati himself.  We start the morning with drizzle and over the course of the morning this gives way to a mostly cloudy sky.  I have not been using much in the way of sun screen.  I figured I could do with a little top off of the tan which seems to be wearing away living in Columbus, OH. The sun does come out for short periods.  Kibo is covered with clouds almost all day.  Mawenzi shows itself every so often and is beautifully framed with clouds.  We have not had very good weather during the trip.  Its rained or snowed every day.  I suppose it could have been worse; we could have had a blizzard, oh well we still have time for that, don't we?  Mawenzi is covered with snow.  Its craggy peaks contrasted with the whiteness of the snow.  Very rarely have Bernard and Goody seen Mawenzi covered in snow.

Senecio

As we walk, we see vegetation peculiar to this area.  Senecio are large plants that are unlike any other plants we have seen, either here or anywhere else for that matter.  It has been recently reclassified into a new subspecies with the botanical name of Dendrosencio kilimanjari.  These are also known as tree or giant groundsels.  They grow to about 8-10 ft in this part of the slopes of Kilimanjaro, although elsewhere they are found in more abundance and may grow to 15ft or more in height.  They have a thick craggy dark bark and are topped with a crown of light green to yellow-brown leaves.

Lobelia

Lobelia come in two shapes, one being the cabbage-like variety and the other that looks like a phallic symbol sprouting out of the cabbage!  Lobelia deckenii is the species that is seen on Kilimanjaro in the moorland zone.  The leaves close at night to  preserve water stored among the leaves.  They flower but once every eight years or so.

Lobelia

Gladiolus

Carduus keniensis

The path is lined by a variety of pretty flowers.  Some of the most beautiful are the gladioli (?) a beautiful dainty red flower.  Also seen are Carduus (keniensis).  I am not even sure what its commonly known as. Then there is Erica, not the pretty girl who works with me, but Erica excelsa, a bushy plant that grows in abundance in the heather zone.  

As we walk we approach a sheer wall that extends for what seems like miles on eight side of our path.  There's no way we are going to be able to climb THAT, I think.  Goody leads us to a fault in this unbroken line that was not visible till we got right up to it.  Through this rough fault we climb across to the other side.  It was a relative easy trek from there to camp.

Lunch was at Kikelewa Caves and consisted of leek soup, fried chicken, fries, boiled eggs and brownies.        
Richard does such a good job with the food.  How he manages to concoct such tasty fare I have not the faintest idea.
The night was clear for the first time on the trek.  No amount of describing can do the African night sky justice.  There, spread out for us in all its splendor was the Milky Way and the countless other stars.  Ken, being from the Big Apple had never seen such a sight.  I give a short astronomy lesson, pointing out the familiar constellations.  Then there was the satellite, a tiny speck of light making its way across the heavens.  That was the first one Ken had ever seen. He gazed at it till it disappeared into the horizon.  The moon was out that night and the Kibo was free of clouds and mist.  It was beautiful.